Travel stories: from Kazbegi and David Gareja to Chiatura and Armenia

During the past two months, I have luckily managed to see quite a lot of the beautiful country that is Georgia. I am really impressed by the natural variety it disposes – as you will see snowy mountains, lavish valleys, and arid semi-deserts within a scope of only a few travel hours. That being said, the nature is of an outstanding beauty, and will probably accumulatively lead to more tourists arriving in Georgia every year. In winter, however, one has to be aware of the more difficult conditions that roads might impose. Being flexible is key. As I concluded with some friends, going on weekend trips in Georgia in winter means most of the time ‘hiking through the snow, climbing up slippery stairs, overcoming dangerous cliffs and risking your life’. When you make it to your viewpoint, however, you immediately forget all your struggles, as Georgian nature never disappoints.

Ananuri Complex
The Caucasus viewpoints in Gudauri

The Georgian Military Highway

One of the first trips I made, in the beginning of February, was the Georgian Military Highway up to Stepantsminda (better known as Kazbegi). The road runs from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz (North Ossetia, Russia), and is often described as one of the most beautiful roads in the world. The first stop brought us to beautiful Ananuri, a scenic castle complex some 65 kilometres north of Tbilisi. From 13th until 18th century, it was the seat of the eristavis of Aragvi, a local feudal dynasty. The fortified castle that can be discovered nowadays dates from the 17th century. After Ananuri, one follows the road that leads to Gudauri, a ski resort on the southern plateau of the Greater Caucasus. Although we did not have time to ski, we could enjoy the amazing viewpoints, as Gudauri is entirely located above tree-level (at an elevation of 2.200m). After many steep and rough sections, we arrived at Stepantsminda, at only 22 kilometres from Vladikavkaz, from where the mighty 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church can be seen on an elevated hilltop. Normally, one can either climb up a steep path or reach the church by car, but this path was completely covered with a thick icy layer, and locals secured us that without professional hiking gear we would not be successful. Being flexible was a must again. Kazbegi remains on the list and has to be revisited in another season.

Kazbegi

The arid Georgian south at David Gareja

In the beginning of February, with some friends I attempted a visit to the monastery complex of David Gareja, in the deep south of Kakheti. This mysterious complex was founded in the 6th century, when an Assyrian monk arrived in the region, and is known for cells, churches, living spaces and chapels that have been carved or hollowed out from the rocky surface. When arriving at Udabno, the last village before the dirt track leading to David Gareja, we were once again confronted with Georgian winter. The dirt track was blocked by metres of snow. We visited Bodbe and Signagi, the showpiece of former President Saakashvili, instead. A few weeks ago, another attempt proved more successful. One has to be very determined and willing to go all the way to David Gareja. The conditions of the road transformed a 70km-drive in 3 hours travelling. When we finally arrived, a steep hike up provided us with breath-taking panoramic views with the Georgian Greater Caucasus up north, and the arid Azerbaijani landscape in southern direction. The arid semi-desert landscape around the complex is fairly different from the rest of Georgia and provides unique vegetation and colours. The complex is actually squatted along the Georgian-Azerbaijani border, a part of it officially located in Azerbaijan. This has generated some border tensions since both countries obtained independence in 1991. The Georgian stance explains David Gareja as intrinsically Georgian and as part of its historical heritage, while Azerbaijan states the complex has Caucasian Albanian origins, and therefore belongs to Azerbaijan.

The road to David Gareja on our first attempt.
David Gareja

Chiatura: a Soviet relic

When Georgia regained independence after the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, it had obtained a legacy of Soviet relics. While those might generally be portrayed through the typical communist flats that one finds in suburbs, such as is the case in Tbilisi, the town of Chiatura tells another story. In the heart of Imereti, Chiatura was a bustling manganese-mining town. During the 1950s and 60s, this provided employment to the people of the region, making it a prosperous industrial town. The mining-labour character of the town made it always stood out, as had been proven during the Russian Revolution, when it became the only Bolshevik-stronghold in Georgia. Stalin was offered shelter in Chiatura and became a hero for the mining workers, who dubbed him ‘sergeant major Koba’. In the 50s, Stalin instructed the development of an ingenious cable car-system. As Chiatura is located within a deep gorge, this seemed the only feasible way to connect the different parts of the town and to get the workers to the mine as fast as possible. In 1954, the first ones where opened, providing a true modern masterpiece during the time. Nowadays, Chiatura provides a gloomy overview. Nothing seems to have changed. Some rusty and coloured cable cars are still functioning, while others hang motionless. Flats and factories look abandoned, although they might sometimes still be functioning. A true adventure awaits us. While we hear a lot of squeaky noises, and have to jump over an abyss when getting out, we had a unique experience in a town that was once ahead of its time. Nowadays, many flats remain empty and are basically valueless, as inhabitants have left for Tbilisi, Kutaisi, or other cities.

Chiatura and its cablecar system

The long Hayastan weekend

Ever since I came to Tbilisi, visiting Armenia was high on my list. Its closeness and easy border procedures made me think it would be a waste to not cross into Hayastan, as Armenians call their country themselves. However, other than Tbilisi, most parts of Armenia have a very extreme climate, with cold winters and hot, dry summers. For weeks I was checking the weather in Yerevan, just to see that another weekend with temperatures plummeting to as much as -25 °C was to be expected. Thus, I had to be patient. Last weekend, spring finally seemed to have arrived in Armenia and together with my Kazakh friends, we decided to grab our chance. As we heard good stories about hitchhiking (something I would have never tried in Western Europe), we were keen to at least try this. Although our luck was variable, we managed to reach Yerevan safe and sound with a stop at the beautiful Lake Sevan along the way. Safe and sound, that is. While our Armenian taxi driver assured us the road at the Sadakhlo-Bagratashen border crossing leading through Noyemberyan, Dilijan, Sevan, to Yerevan, was safe enough during daytime, we later found out this certainly is not always the case. The road scrapes along the Armenian-Azerbaijani border for a couple of kilometres, and abandoned houses and churches with bullet holes can be witnessed.

Sevanavank and frozen Lake Sevan

Arriving in Sevan, we witnessed a completely frozen lake. According to locals, this was a unique event that had occurred for the first time in twenty years. We arrived in Yerevan after sunset and could immediately enjoy the great view on the city we had from our apartment. Yerevan cannot be compared to Tbilisi in a lot of perspectives. Where Tbilisi boasts an old city centre, and a vibrant cosmopolitan and clubbing culture, Yerevan seems a rather conservative and impromptu capital. It possesses over lavish avenues, an impressive Republic Square, fancy shops, and great restaurants with great hospitability and tasty Armenian food, but at the same time a real core seems to be absent. As Yerevan only started to gain independence after Armenia rose as an independent state for the first time in 1918, most buildings are either in Soviet or post-Soviet style. The several monuments and references that refer to Armenia’s very troubled past seem to actually hold the country back in this past. An understandable sense of sadness, combined with boundless militancy seems never far away. However, this clingy nostalgia often feels like impeding Yerevan from truly becoming a 21st-century capital, regardless of how many new skyscrapers may be built. The feeling of loss becomes ultimate in Khor Virap, an ancient Armenian monastery complex close to the Turkish border. Its opponent on the Turkish side is the mighty Ararat, the long-lost Armenian symbol. Everywhere you go in Armenia, the Ararat is present. It is an intangible religious, cultural and heroic symbol for the Armenians, but which now finds itself located within the boundaries of another state. Armenia, being one of the oldest inhabited regions of the world, is definitely a very interesting place to visit, and stirs many different, often opposed, sentiments and emotions.

Yerevan concrete
Khor Virap and Mount Ararat in the background

Tbilisi wanderings

Every time I went on trips and came back to Tbilisi, it felt as coming home. It’s a strange feeling how fast this city seems to have accepted me and made me feel comfortable. In a relatively short time, I managed to make a lot of new great friends, interesting contacts, and see a lot of this bubbling city. In many senses, Tbilisi is one of the new places to be! Rarely I have seen a city developing so fast, becoming so vibrant, and inspiring. It boasts over great history, a well-maintained old centre, chic modern neighbourhoods, many cultural events, and an exciting nightlife. It is the exact opposite of what people might expect when they think of Tbilisi as a former Soviet outlet in the Caucasus. Tbilisi is special. It unifies many cultures, and it is becoming more cosmopolitan every day. When I complained to my colleague Ana about the lack of bookshops in the city, she wanted to prove me wrong and took me on a ‘bookshop tour’. And although those places might not always be on the most central locations, they indeed exist and possess over a variety of books in Georgian, Russian and English. You just have to know where they are located and what they are specialised in. As copyright laws are not so strict here, Ana also taught me how to differentiate real editions from fake books. Even in Georgia, 8GEL for Orhan Pamuk’s latest novel seems to be too good to be true. While sadly very little of Georgian literature has been translated, it is definitely worth trying to find something. Shota Rustaveli’s ვეფხისტყაოსანი (The Knight in the Panther’s Skin), a national epic poem, is probably Georgia’s most famous work.

Tbilisi book hunting

Videoconference on Georgian-Russian Relations

On April 15, on the initiative of Moscow State Institute of International Relations (MGIMO) alongside Caucasian House organized a conference on the Georgian-Russian relations.

During the conference, Georgian and Russian analysts discussed current tendencies and possible scenarios of development of Georgian-Russian relations.

From Georgian side the first report was delivered by Giorgi Gobronidze, the invited lecturer at Georgian-American University. The report covered the topic on Challenges of International Terrorism in Georgia. The speaker described in detail the overall situation in the country and based on examples of other countries’ experience explained why Georgia does not represent the foreground target for international terrorism.

Maia Urushadze, the project manager at Caucasian House, presented a detailed report “State Policy of Georgia toward Muslim Community on the example of Pankisi Gorge”, which was based on the results of the research, conducted by the staff of Caucasian House. The speaker focused on the problems of Pankisi gorge and analyzed the state policy implemented in this direction. Moreover during the discussions, the author underlined the negative role of media coverage of events as well as the attempts of international actors to have a negative impact on the region.

The last speaker from Georgia was Mariam Gachechiladze, the researcher at Caucasian House, who covered the topic “Georgian Diaspora in Russia and Georgian-Russian Relations”. The reporter analyzed the activities of Georgian diasporic organizations from 2004 until 2012, based on main tendencies and on the results of research.

The following Russian counterparts took part in the discussion: director of the Department for Problems of Ethnic Relations at the Institute for Political and Military Analysis Sergey Markedonov with a report “Russia-Georgia: The Limits of Normalization or Normalization without Passing “Red Lines” and Nikolai Silaev, Senior Research Advisor at Center for the Regional Security and Caucasus Studies at MGIMO University, presented a report on scenarios of the development of Georgian political system after parliamentary elections 2016. The last two speakers from Russian side were: Andrei Diogtiov, the graduate student of MGIMO University in Comparative Politics with a report on Georgia’s Economy in the Space Regional Powers’ Contradictions and a member of the Georgian club of MGIMO University Zurab Shavlidze, who during his speech covered the topic on “Formats of Interaction between Russia and Georgia in the Absence of Diplomatic Relations.”

After the presentations, students of MGIMO and invited representatives of Georgian diaspora had an opportunity to ask questions and express their opinion.

The videoconference was organized by the Students’ Scientific Club of MGIMO University, supported by Aleksey Tokarev, analyst of the Global Problems Study Center at MGIMO University.

 

 

Competition for Participation in the Forum: New Challenges in the South Caucasus and the Georgian-Russian Relations

The Centre for Cultural Relations – Caucasian House invites Georgian experts to participate in the upcoming meeting between Georgian and Russian analysts. The meetings will be held in the framework of “Georgian-Russian Dialogue for Peace and Cooperation” project on February 27-28, 2015.

Project description

Caucasian house has been implementing the project “Georgian-Russian Dialogue for Peace and Cooperation” since 2011 with the financial support of British Embassy, Tbilisi. The aim of the project is the encouragement of open dialogue between Georgian and Russian researchers and the development of recommendations and political alternatives for the decision makers.

In the framework of the above mentioned dialogue, Georgian and Russian experts regularly visit Georgia and Russia. The participants of the projects are granted an opportunity to meet officials and independent experts and to take part in bilateral roundtables in order to discuss current issues related to Russian-Georgian relationship and regional issues as well.
The next meeting will be held in Bakuriani on February 27-28. The topics for discussion are: the security of the South Caucasus – the radicalization of Islam and the deterioration of the relations between Russia and Turkey; Russian-Georgian economic relations and energy security of the region.

All costs including transportation, accommodation, meals are covered by The Centre for Cultural Relations – Caucasian House.

Eligibility

In order to be considered eligible to apply, you must fulfill all of the following criteria
Call for: citizens on Georgia
Age: 23-45
Professional qualification: researchers, journalists, academics, the representatives of non-governmental organizations and state agencies.
Working language: Russian

Selected candidates will be interviewed. Georgian participants will be selected by The Centre for Cultural Relations – Caucasian House. Russian participants will be selected by the A.Gorchakov Fund in Support of Public Diplomacy

Application procedure:

Please send you CV and cover letter in which you express your motivation to participate in the project to the following e-mail: maia.urushadze@caucasianhouse.ge
Deadline for accepting the applications: 09.02.2016

 

The project is funded by the British Embassy Tbilisi.

The International University on Conflict Transformation Has Started

On 30th of November the International University on Conflict Transformation has started in Minsk (Belarus). The goal of the following project is the promotion of the better understanding of the regional conflicts, and the peaceful transformation through conducting a series of lectures.

During the first three days ware discussed number of different topics like: Georgian conflicts, relationship between Russia and Ukraine, foreign policy of Russia and its priorities. It should also be mentioned that participants of the project had possibility to work out the possible solutions of Syrian crisis through simulation game. Also the hosting speakers covered topics dedicated toward foreign policy and economical vectors.

The upcoming days will be dedicated toward Ukrainian internal politics with special focus on non-controlled territories and the possible ways of solution. And through analyzing the Catalonia and Kosovo cases identify the European approach toward conflict transformation process. The training course ends up by screening movie on 4th of December.

 

Public Lecture Series on Russia’s Foreign Policy Finished

The public lecture series on the Russian Foreign Policy, organized by the Caucasian House, were successfully held in the Tbilisi State University (TSU). The lectures were delivered by Dr. ANDREY MAKARYCHEV, Guest Professor at the University of Tartu, Estonia.

During the first lecture, the issues of the Russian identity and the sources of the Euroscepticism were discussed. The next lecture was focused on the Russia’s neighborhood policy. The cases of Georgia, Estonia and Ukraine were discussed as exemplary. The last lecture was dedicated to the debate on securitization in Russia.
Students, researches and other interested attended the lectures.

The lectures were conducted during November 28 – December 1 as part of the project Georgian-Russian Dialogue for Peace and Cooperation, funded by the British Embassy Tbilisi.

 

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Public Lectures in Russia’s Foreign Policy

The Centre for Cultural Relations – Caucasian House is organizing public lecture series in Russia’s Foreign Policy. The lectures will be delivered by Dr. ANDREY MAKARYCHEV, Guest Professor at the University of Tartu, Estonia.

 

Since the year 2012 “Caucasian House” is conducting analytical researches related to Russia’s foreign and internal policy and Georgian-Russian relations while analyzing deeper the different aspects of it. Considering current situation in Georgia, it is extremely important to have professionals and researchers, who understand Russia’s foreign policy, internal processes and can contribute by working in academic field as well as participating in development of relevant state policies. It should be noted that it is already second year when Caucasian House is conducting public lectures in Russian Foreign Policy and aims to increase the knowledge of students and young researches about Russia. 

 

VENUE: Tbilisi State University, Building I. Ilia Chavchavadze Ave 1.

SCHEDULE:

Nov 28,  12:00 pm room 302, 1st building Russian identity-in-the-making: between the Soviet and the post-Soviet
Nov 28,  14:00 pm room 302, 1st building Russia’s normative project: the sources of Euroscepticism
Nov 30,  16:00 pm room 115, 1st building Russia’s neighborhood policy (the cases of Estonia, Ukraine and Georgia)
Dec 01,  16:00 pm room 115, 1st building After Syria: a new security debate in Russia 

Participants who will attend all lectures will be awarded a certificate of completion.

Other details:

Working language – English

Attendance is free

For additional information please contact project coordinator Ana Dvali by e-mail ana.dvali@caucasianhouse.ge or call +995 577 77 04 09

To attend the lectures, please register below.

REGISTRATION FORM

Name (required)

Last Name(required)

Mobile Number(required)

E-mail (required)

Organization or University (required)

For the further information about the event, please see the attached file.

 

The lectures are held in the framework of the project “Georgian-Russian Dialogue for Peace and Cooperation” funded by The British Embassy Tbilisi